September

Last year, Potato farmers were trying to bump-up prices with talk of blight infestations but it didn’t really get off the ground. This season, no such rumours have surfaced, as yet and prices look like staying low throughout the autumn, at least.

Cool August weather should mean an extended season for English soft fruits, unless they are hit by an early frost. English Berries should perk-up this month — weather permitting. Plums should, at least, be plentiful at the beginning of the month. We’re expecting reasonable supplies of French, Italian, Spanish and, hopefully, some English fruit in the market. Last year we managed to source Warwickshire Droopers, Casselmans, Stanleys and Presidents. Greengages and superb, dark, rich, bitter-sweet Damsons, the jam-maker’s favourite. Sloes will also be available, though not until the end of the month. City Herbs will also have small quantities of other wild, hedgerow fruit. Hips, Haws, Elderberries and Rowan Berries, brilliant for jellies and syrups.

The Apple Research Centre in Kent will, no doubt, supply us with all manner of weird and wonderful varieties in this month. There'll be plenty of choice in the market, too. Charles Ross, Worcester Pearmains, James Grieves will kick off and Cox's and Egremont Russets will appear a little later. English Conference Pears will be crunchy and delicious and French Williams will be excellent too. Red Williams are a popular choice. The best fruit arrives from France and Italy in mid-month.

Prepare to say farewell to Peaches, Nectarines and Apricots. All are around at the beginning of the month, but have virtually disappeared by the end. Peaches go out with a bang though. Beautiful sanguine-fleshed Blood Peaches flirt briefly with our senses in September. The appearance of Blood Oranges makes quite a bloody month of it. In run-of-the-mill citrus, problems are possible. For the last two years there has been a gap between the end of the southern, and the beginning of the northern hemisphere’s seasons.

Large Italian White Grapes begin to arrive and you may begin to taste that fabulous muscatellish perfume. They’ll improve throughout the month, but usually don’t reach the pinnacle of great taste until October. Seedless Grapes may begin to get problematical and Strawberries will have their ups and downs too. Blackberries won't be as plentiful as you might imagine: most cultivated varieties are early-ripening, so are finished by September. We hope to get our New Forest pickers out a-gathering, so we can deliver wild fruit. You can forget about Cherries and also Lychees. Rambutans are likely to be excellent though.

In addition to wonderful golden and orange sweet Pumpkins, we should see plenty of late summer Squashes in the market. Marrows and Courgettes may be plentiful too but a cold snap can cause them to disappear rapidly. Spinach is likely to be good, as the cool weather allows it to take on a darker colour. Brassiccas are usually excellent in early autumn. Broccoli should be dark and tight, and Cauliflowers, bright and close-textured. Pyramid-floreted Romanesco will be at its best and it tastes as good as it looks. Real, super-crinkly Savoy Cabbages will arrive, replacing the less wrinkled summer crop. Last year, we even managed to find some very early Curly Kale, but if you’d rather go for something more exotic, Swiss Chard, Pak Choi and Choi Sam pack plenty of taste and good looks.

September is truly a time to return to your roots. Celeriac is back on form and Carrots, Turnips and Swedes are likely to be good and cheap. Even Parsnips begin to develop their full, sweet taste, especially given a September frost. Milky, crunchy, beautiful French Red- Skinned Jerusalem Artichokes will be with us by the end of the month. Leeks should be cheap-ish, and and English Onion prices should remain low. Salad crops are definitely at the mercy of the weather.

A few frosty September nights can spell the end for English outdoor-grown Lettuces. In recent years, however, the mild weather has prevailed throughout the month, and the quality and price of home-grown salads has remained good. English Radiccio thrives in the cooler weather, becoming incredibly beautiful. The taste appeal of Canary Tomatoes guarantees them a warm welcome as they return to our shores. French Lollo, Oak, and Frisee will stay in shape and Roquette and Pousses often improves in the cooler weather. Red Mustard Leaves bolt quickly and look scruffy in August, but should return to form in September. Even English Herbs remain good throughout most Septembers, excepting particularly cold ones. Should the weather become inclement, we'll return to Israel or France for our supplies.

The excitement of the first mushroom hunt of the season invariably renews one’s addiction. In September fungi begin to pour in from all over Europe, and prices become very competitive. Revel in Trompettes, Pieds de Moutons, Amethyst Deceivers, Giroles and, of course, wonderful
Ceps and other Boleti. Last year we received some surprisingly late Giant Puff-Balls.